The Semiotics of Khaki Pants

Relaxed fit: With noticeably wider legs and no sign of a crease, relaxed-fit pants look loose and athletic and may even have some fraying at the cuffs.

Cotton trousers ($49) by Tommy Hilfiger; canvas shoes ($45) by Sperry Top-Sider. Found on the likes of: George Clooney

Pleats: You know the drill: Flat fronts are considered more modern, but pleats provide room to maneuver without ripping your pants. Options go from slight folds to voluminous double pleats, and for our money, the subtler the better.

Cuffs: They range from a slight inch-and-a-quarter turnup to a two-inch-thick band, and they’re best for men with long legs.

Cotton-twill trousers ($128) and leather loafers ($188) by Brooks Brothers. Found on the likes of: George H.W. Bush

Tab closure: Found on most formal trousers, a tab closure gives your waistline a clean, unobstructed look by drawing attention away from the buttons.

Creases: It’s just another way of saying your khaki pants have been ironed. It also implies that you iron your socks.

Cotton trousers ($70) by Dockers; suede shoes ($130) by Johnston & Murphy. Found on the likes of: George Stephanopoulos

Crumple: Some light wrinkling and a slouchy construct typify the most casual breed of khakis. Wash them only when absolutely necessary.

Cotton trousers ($228) by Gilded Age; sneakers ($82) by Fred Perry. Found on the likes of: George Michael

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Must-Own Dress Shirt Colors

Move away from the white shirt and add a blast of color to your wardrobe by incorporating these fine colors to your sartorial repertoire.

If you know your AskMen.Com Style Bible, you already know the various shirt styles every man should own. So let’s go a bit further and breakdown the must-own dress shirt colors for this year. Keep in mind, however, that adding color does not, under any circumstances, allow a man to ever wear a pink shirt. The pink dress shirt has had its time and there shall not be a 16th minute of fame for this silly-looking color on a man.

Classic blue

The classic blue dress shirt allows flexibility without the drollness of the white shirt. Best of all, the classic blue bridges the gap between formal and informal simply in the way you wear it. Pair it with a red tie and you’re ready for a political office. A dark gray or black tie lends formality and strength to your look. Go blue on blue with a sharp blue suit and tie for a continental look or leave it unbuttoned, sans tie, for a casually modern appearance. In short, this is the shirt you should always pack when heading out of town.

Gray

This sombre color outdoes classic blue in seriousness because it tones down any suit or sport coat it's paired with. If you thought a black three-button suit looked sharp with the classic blue, you haven’t truly entered a room until you wear this gray number from Ted Baker. The gunmetal black buttons also allow you to wear it with a neatly pressed pair of black trousers and modern lace-up Oxfords for a touch of casual elegance.

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Suits Under $500

You probably don’t wear a suit every day, so why drop more cash on one than you need to? Advancements in mechanized weaving allow designers to offer affordable wool suits under $500 without sacrificing quality or style. Sure, buying off-the-rack can be frustrating, but a good tailor can modify any garment to fit your frame at a fraction of the price you would pay at a bespoke haberdashery. And if you do need a suit every day of the workweek, consider stocking up on the following suits under $500 and finding a tailor who knows a thing or two about suits besides fixing buttons.

Ralph Lauren Cost: $495

A wool two-button suit in charcoal is the very definition of classic gentlemanly style, and this number by Ralph Lauren delivers with a slightly wider notch lapel. Choosing this style in charcoal allows you to wear this suit all year round with the ability to dress it up with a white shirt and a solid blue or purple tie. You could also try it with a dark blue shirt and matching tie for a modern look, or dress it down with a black turtleneck in colder weather.

Calvin Klein Cost: $495

Staying true to the modern aesthetic of clean lines and slim lapels with three buttons, this Calvin Klein navy wool suit under $500 keeps your color options open by allowing you to pair it with a variety of shirts and ties. Don’t forget, however, that while a tie is always in style, this suit allows you to wear a simple white shirt with an open collar. Most importantly, never fasten all three buttons. If you’re with a conservative crowd or at the workplace you should fasten the top two buttons, but if you want to show off your modern flare, fasten only the middle one -- this shows off your tie and adds a casual touch to the suit.

Kenneth Cole Cost: $495

No one does an affordable black suit better than Kenneth Cole. His design is as modern as it is classic, and it can be seen on the most savvy international business travelers. Many designers offer similar suits at outrageous prices, but only Kenneth Cole gives you this much style cache in a suit under $500. Sure, you could pair it with the ubiquitous French blue shirt and blue silk tie or you could raise the stakes by wearing a black polka-dot tie with a white cutaway collared shirt. And don’t be afraid to take the modern look even further by skipping the cuffs on the trouser legs and having them hemmed with a very slight break over the shoe.

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Guy's Gift Guide

There are few hard-and-fast rules in fashion, but there is one mandate your WhoWhatWearDaily.com editors firmly believe: It is always stylish to give marvelous gifts.

Showing up with the primo present is a good look on everyone, and we want you, dear readers, to look your best. That said, today we’re happy to present the final installment of our annual gift guide featuring a few of our favorite things for the fellows.

The Dude

1. Mr. Untouchable: My Crimes and Punishments ($16.47)

As most fellows love the gangsters as much as dogs dig playing fetch, there is no doubt this book will captivate The Dude. It’s a memoir by Nicky Barnes, who, along with Frank Lucas (the recent American Gangster was based on Lucas’s life), ran the heroin game in New York in the 1970’s. Barnes’ true-life tail details his drug kingpin heyday, big bust and subsequent jail time, and how he ended up a free man—it’s a must-read!

New Dad

1. Storksak Jamie Bag in Espresso ($198) One of the many things the New Dad must get used to is an increased amount of personal paraphernalia—babies require lots of gear! Storksak has a wonderful all-purpose tote that’s ideal for lugging the little one’s stuff. The leather bag has two insulated side pockets for the baby’s bottles (or yours), lots of inside pockets, a changing mat, and can hold a laptop. Best of all, it’s attractive and streamlined!

The Dandy

1. The Antique Jewel Box Typewriter Key Cufflinks ($75 each/$150 a set) Before you roll your eyes and moan, “Cufflinks are so boring,” you need to see these. They’re made from vintage keys scored from 1920’s typewriters (all letters are available) and we think they’re dapper enough for even the most discerning Dandy.

Every Guy

1. The Playboy Complete Centerfolds Collection ($500) Surely the men you know read Playboy “for the articles,” but on the off chance they’ve glanced at the magazine’s non-textual items and, you know, didn’t mind the gorgeous photographs, this collector’s edition book might be just the perfect present. The limited-edition tome is a complete retrospective of centerfolds (from every single issue of Playboy) and contains over 600 bunnies for Every Guy’s perusal. Besides, what else says, “Season’s Greetings,” like nudity?

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Trends To Avoid In 2008 - Part I

You know the feeling. You see it on the street once and think it’s a strange fashion choice, and then you see it again.

And again. Suddenly, you realize it’s the latest fashion trend and everyone’s wearing it. And you start to wonder where you can buy it, and soon you desperately want to jump on this fashion trend bandwagon.

Rationally, you’re aware that this fashion trend might not be right for you, but you can’t stop yourself from secretly coveting it. But wait -- before you spend your hard-earned dollars on the next fashion trend of 2008, take a deep breath and read this article.

One of the cardinal rules of fashion is that if it doesn’t suit your body type, steer clear of it. To ensure that you only buy pieces that are right for you, we’re providing you with a list of fashion trends to avoid in 2008 -- unless you want to turn into a fashion victim. Spotted on major runways and in some of the world’s more fashion-forward cities this year, these atrocious garments will soon be coming to a store near you, so you’ll need to know what they are in order to make sure they don’t end up in your closet. Keep reading to figure out which fashion trends to avoid in 2008 and to make sure that you’re wearing your clothes instead of letting them wear you.

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The New Breed of Bespoke Suit

Custom-made clothing isn't just for freaks of nature any more.

New made-to-order programs can make even the most ordinary man look good.

True story: A millionaire, a dwarf, and a giant redwood of a man walk into a tailor's shop looking for custom-made clothing. Tailor looks at the three of them and says, "What is this, some kind of joke?" Dwarf says, "What is this, some kind of bar?" Okay, so it might not be true, but the point is this: Until recently, the very rich and the oddly shaped were the only men associated with custom tailoring. In recent years, mass retailers like Brooks Brothers and higher-end labels like Giorgio Armani and Hermès have initiated or expanded their made-to-measure and bespoke programs to target customers who've traditionally stuck with off-the-rack. That way, a man with a taste for, say, Etro suits can get the style he's accustomed to but with a (much) better fit and total control over the details. The results, like this Etro two-piece, will fit better, last longer, and make any man -- tall, short, or anywhere in between -- look amazing.

Bespoke two-piece suit (from $3,500), shirt ($320), and tie ($125) by Etro.

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Common Male Fashion Mistakes - Part I

While women make just as many questionable style choices...

tight jeans with muffin tops, anyone?) as men, there’s not as much help out there for guys who are innocently undermining their look. Although many fashion slips apply equally to both sexes, there are several that are very male-specific. Since it’s true that people’s first impression of us is often based on appearance, we decided to spend some time browsing workplaces, stores, cafes, and bars to uncover the most common fashion mistakes men make and let you in on how to avoid them and improve your personal presentation.

Read on to make sure you’re not committing any of these fashion crimes and find out how to correct your fashion faux pas if you recognize yourself in any one of these blunders.

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Designer Brand Crash Course

You hear the names, see the ads and perhaps even own a few pieces of...

their lines, but do you really know how Kenneth Cole got his start or the role Ralph Lauren played in the fashion void of the 1970s? Perhaps you think Hugo Boss is just a line of fragrances in the duty free shop at Heathrow or that Burberry is just the name of the bag Paris Hilton totes her dog in.

Ralph Lauren

It’s Lor-en, not La-ren, and in many fashion circles you reveal your ignorance by mispronouncing his name. As a culture we owe much to Ralph Lauren for defining American style. We also have him to blame for the wide-tie craze in the early 1970s, which is now beginning to resurface. But he can be forgiven for this because he continually reinvents classic American fashion within his empire.When his preppy-inspired suits became too commonplace in the late 1980s he brought out the Purple Label by Ralph Lauren for the 1990s, which fused the best of Savile Row with American sensibility. When the Purple Label became too prolific the Black Label was born, adding a dash of mystery and jet-set cocktail style with supple black leathers and evening wear. If you’re not sure where you fit in with big-name designers, you can’t go wrong with Ralph. His line is so exhaustive and full of colors for various skin tones and body types that any man can walk into one of his stores and walk out with a new wardrobe from head to toe.

Kenneth Cole

You know the name, but do you know he learned the craft of shoemaking with his own hands in Europe before coming home to change the shoe market? Today, Kenneth Cole is still about the shoes, but his leather jackets and accessories -- such as briefcases and watches -- are unbeatable for value, longevity and pure style. If you travel often for work or play, this is the line for you; a Kenneth Cole ensemble looks just as good in Milan as it does in L.A. or Sao Paolo. The cut of the clothes are for the fit and active man on the go, so be sure to visit one of his stores to try on everything.

Giorgio Armani

Forget about the price tags; Armani style is about cut, drape and fabric. The clothing moves with your body and not against it -- as the garments of so many of his imitators often do. He is so well-known today that the name has become code for "money." But the truth is that Armani would prefer you just wore his clothes in your everyday down-to-earth life, which is why he uses muted tones of blue, gray and black in each collection. The clothes are crafted with luxurious Italian simplicity, and once you learn the touch and feel of Armani you can see it coming a mile away.

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How Your Fingernails Should Look

This ain't about a manicure. Or nail polish.

It's about when to trim your nails, how your cuticles should look, and one hell of a good-lookin' handshake.

a.) Moisturize. We know, we know, it's a little girlie, but applying lotion can help prevent cracked and painful skin. Truman's Gentlemen's Groomers, a New York City spa, recommends daily application. If you insist on keeping some at work, keep it in a drawer and apply discreetly.

b.) Smooth the edges. Nail files are just as important as they are embarrassing, but having your nails fully rounded will keep you from picking at them. Don't try to use the little file on your clippers -- get a real one. (See "How Your Fingernails Should Look: The Gear" for more information.)

c.) Don't cut your cuticle, that thin layer of skin that grows over the base of each nail. It's not sanitary, and it's not safe. Push it back after you shower, when your skin is softest.

d.) Leave a little bit of white at the tips of your nails. Cutting too close to the nail bed can cause infections and frustration when you find a spare penny. According to the guys at Truman's, it's time to trim when you touch the end of your finger and can feel your nail.

e.) No buffing, not ever. A slight natural shine looks presentable, but more than that and you'll have a hard time convincing someone that you're not wearing polish.

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Redo Your Bedroom For Under $500

Whether you’ve just moved in to a new place or you’re bored with your current digs, you probably don’t have a lot of spare cash to throw away on decorating

-- but, you don’t want to live in a hovel. You know that a bedroom that’s pleasing to the senses is one that girls will want to hang out in. Well, you’ll be happy to know that it is indeed possible to redo your den without breaking the bank. In fact, you can completely make over your bedroom for just $500.The first thing to do is decide on a theme for the room -- preferably something quite minimalist since fuss-free pieces with clean lines will give your room a cool and polished look while letting you get away with buying less furniture. Curious about what your room could actually look like? Keep reading to learn about the seven smart buys that will get you to new bedroom heaven.

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Clothes Big Boys Don’t Wear

Sit outdoors at a café or have a drink at a bar with a view of passersby and you’ll quickly notice something strange -- grown-ups in children’s clothing.

While women are guilty of this sin too (pigtails anyone?), men tend to be particularly prone to wearing clothes they should have thrown out a decade ago. Most men don’t live to shop, so it’s natural to not feel like your wardrobe needs to be revamped every season. However, every so often, it’s necessary to take a cold hard look at the garments in your closet and determine what’s out of style, and more importantly, what you’ve matured out of wearing.

Oversized clothing

One of the greatest crimes committed against fashion by men is wearing oversized clothes. While big and baggy might have been a cool look in high school, if you’ve reached the legal drinking age, it’s no longer hip. Though some of the stars who helped popularize this look, such as Jay-Z, continue to occasionally sport baggier jeans and shirts, they compensate by accessorizing their look with a Ferrari. So unless you plan to turn up in front of Madison Square Garden in a Maserati, it’s time to shift your style mentor from Coolio to Kanye West.

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Winter Clothes To Buy Now

Assembling an all-star wardrobe may not be as impossible as you think. Not if you take your lead from pro-sports and pick your major-label purchases in the off-season. Today’s top labels, like minor brands, can also be found at affordable prices on sale racks. Since all retailers operate on seasonal cycles, they offer awesome deals on great labels as their clothes go out of season. Shopping during the off-season allows you to buy high-end designer names at a fraction of the original cost. The trick, however, is weeding through the trendy garments of the passing season and pulling out those timeless pieces that will be stylish for seasons to come. To illustrate the point, here are a few picks of high-end winter clothes that you should buy now and wear later.

Calvin Klein wool suit
A handsome suit from one of today’s leading designers, Calvin Klein’s three-button black wool suit is the perfect addition to any guy’s repertoire of winter suits. Much like the name it carries, this suit epitomizes the best in today’s fashion with its sleek, modern cut. You’re sure to be an inspiration around the office in this high-profile suit, especially if word gets around how little you paid for it. Since the wool fabric restricts it to cold-weather usage, this suit is currently available for over $100 off the sticker price. Picking up this fine suit will show your friends you know not only how to dress, but also how to shop.

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How To Care For Ties

Caring for a tie isn’t as simple as you may think. A tie requires much more than being clumsily stuffed in a drawer when it’s not being worn. It also requires care when being taken off. For example, when removing your tie, don't pull the thin end through the knot unless you want to ruin the tie’s shape. Instead, remove the tie by following the tie-tying steps in reverse. And this tip is just the beginning…

To preserve this delicate component of your wardrobe, follow these easy tips so that your favorite ties hang with you for years to come.

Storage
Even more important than the way you wear your tie is the way you store it. The first step in maintaining your tie collection is putting it away properly. Regardless of the type of fabric -- silk or wool -- ties are delicate and impressionable. As soon as your tie comes off, hang it around a coat hanger or over the dowel in your closet; don’t lay it down on the dresser or throw it over a chair. Hanging the tie up properly allows the creases from the knot to fall out; plus, hanging it in your closet keeps it out of bright, natural light that can fade the fabric.

Most department stores sell inexpensive hangers just for ties, paying you big dividends on a small investment. And for the guy on the go, transport your tie in your luggage by folding it into fours and placing it inside your coat pocket, shoe or sock. For the more meticulous packer, specialty tie cases exist that are designed to hold your tie flat and secure.

Wrinkles
Wrinkles are a universal sign of aging, and ties are no exception to this fact. The more often a tie gets tied, the more knot impressions it sustains and absorbs, so you must do all you can to protect your ties from excessive wrinkles. The first step in preventing wrinkles is to never wear the same tie two days in a row; like a good pair of shoes, a tie needs time to regain its shape. But, regardless of your best efforts, your ties are probably going to wrinkle. The key is knowing how to get the wrinkles out.

While storing your ties properly is your first line of defense, it may not be enough. As a backup, turn to steam. The easiest trick is to hang your tie inside the bathroom while you shower. Or, for tougher wrinkles, use a handheld steamer to remove deep-set, pesky creases. Conair makes several inexpensive models, many of which are sized for travel. Carrying a handheld steamer while traveling is great not only for ties, but also for shirts, pants and suits.

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Suit Fabric & Thread Count

Picking the right suit depends on more than just finding a good style; you have to pick one in a suitable fabric. Depending on the season, the appropriate suit fabric will differ -- although there are yearly staples, like wool, that will accommodate your style needs all year long.

Here’s a rundown of everything you need to know about suits so that you can pick out the perfect one for yourself.

Wool
Most modern suits are made of wool. It’s the most versatile fabric, the best in comfort, wrinkle-resistant, and has greater longevity than most. Another characteristic that makes wool an ideal suit fabric is its ability to absorb moisture, so even when you’re forced to sport a suit on the hottest of days, it’ll keep you cool. The most common types of wool suits are merino, cashmere and angora. Best season: All year long

Flannel
Flannel isn’t quite as popular as it used to be because it’s a heavy fabric that doesn’t breathe much, which means that you’ll be toasty warm in any climate. Its wear has also declined because the fabric begins to peel over time. Best season: Winter

Cotton
Cotton is a durable fabric found in most American suits; it doesn’t quite fit Europeans’ fancy. Like wool, cotton can absorb sweat and keep you cool throughout most months. As a huge bonus, the fabric is quite practical and easy to maintain since it’s machine-washable. Best season: Spring, summer, fall

Linen
Linen may look cool while on a tropical vacation, but it has many drawbacks that don’t necessarily fit into the modern man’s day-to-day life. A linen suit is lightweight and will keep you very cool in the warmer months, but its downfall is that it creases very easily. Best season: Summer

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Jackets vs. Blazers

While the blazer has its roots firmly planted in sport jacket history, subtle style differences make the two wardrobe pieces very distinct from one another. The difference between them is often misunderstood and their distinct boundaries are often muddled simply because neither a jacket nor a blazer has a matching pair of pants. Despite this similarity, however, there do exist major differences; mainly, a sport jacket is textured and oftentimes patterned, whereas a blazer is a solid color (usually navy or black), made of smooth fabric and is traditionally seen with naval-style brass buttons.
To avoid confusing the two styles any further, learn more about the differences between a jacket and a blazer; this way, you’ll avert any unbecoming fashion blunders, like showing up to your formal business meeting in a heavily patterned sport jacket and flannel trousers.

Sport jacket
The sport jacket derives from the experimentation with sports clothes in the mid-nineteenth century. By the early twentieth century, men were seeking comfort and high fashion in their clothing, and turned to the ever-evolving sport jacket as a fashion-forward, casual answer to laidback social functions -- meaning, an afternoon at a stuffy gentleman’s club or while sitting on the sidelines of a tennis match.

Today’s sport jacket, however, has a very different meaning as it can also be dressed down with a pair of jeans or chinos for more casual functions.

Odd jacket
Named after its lack of matching trousers, the odd jacket was known mostly as sporting-event and clubhouse attire. The odd jacket is also known for incorporating distinctive detailing like pleats, stitched belts and offbeat pockets into the ever-evolving design. The blazer is often described as a derivative of the odd jacket, although it incorporates enough differences to belong in a category all its own.

Patterned sport jacket
The patterned sport jacket appeared after World War II to accommodate the business-casual lifestyle that men began leading. Incorporating bold patterns like Shetland stripes (seen on Ivy League campuses) and madras plaids (seen in colleges and country clubs), patterned sport jackets were a way for the fashion-conscious, modern man to avoid having his jacket embarrassingly mistaken for a suit jacket.

If you’re looking to add a contemporary patterned sport jacket to your wardrobe, this Dolce & Gabbana brown houndstooth sport jacket is the way to go. It’s perfect for pairing with denim for a refined casual look.

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